Adhesive seam and method and apparatus for its manufacture

ABSTRACT

A garment seam is formed between two fabric panels by abutting the edges of at least two panels and placing a strip of material carrying adhesive on the abutted edges to form the seam. The fabric panels have opposing major surfaces, the edges of the fabric panels being minor surfaces. The strip of material is applied on at least one major surface of the abutted fabric panels, but is optionally applied to both major surfaces of the abutted fabric panels. The strip of material is preferably thinner than the fabric panels. In some embodiments, the adhesive is a thermosetting adhesive that is applied on the strip of material in liquid form. A seam manufactured according to the present invention is less detectable through clothing than conventional multi-ply seams. Also the adhesive seam enables the manufacturer to tailor the garment to provide support or shape in a particular area (i.e. the area of the seam) in addition to providing the desirable smooth appearance. For example, when used in a brassiere (bra) cup, the seam allows the garment to be designed to provide optimal comfort, shape and support to the wearer.

CROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATION

This application claims the benefit of the filing date of U.S.Provisional Patent Application No. 60/717,679, filed on Sep. 16, 2005,the disclosure of which is hereby incorporated herein by reference.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates generally to seams for garments and theirmanufacture. More particularly, the seams of the present provide greatercomfort to the wearer and are less bulky than conventional seams, whichare formed from multiple plys (e.g., layers) of material. The seams ofthe present invention find particular advantage in foundation garments(i.e. garments worn under other garments) especially those over whichshear or clingy outer garments are worn and through which bulky seamsare clearly (and undesirably) visible.

In a typical garment, a sewn seam is formed between two fabric panels.Seams are sewn or otherwise formed in a variety of different ways,depending upon the material, the feature of the garment formed by theseam and numerous other factors. In a typical sewn seam, the panels offabric to be joined by the seams are superposed at their edges andstitched through at a short distance from the edges to form twooverlapping facing strips at the edge of the seam. The facing strips arethen “plowed” or folded on their respective panels, and each is stitchedflat against the panel. This seam is formed on the inside of the garmentso that the stitched facing strips are not visible on the outside. Inmany garments where the thick seam can lead to chafing or otherdiscomfort, the plowed strips are then covered with a tape which is sewnto the panel through the plowed strips. Typically, the edges of the tapeare folded under in order to avoid fraying, before the tape is sewn tothe panels. However, the seam is several plies thick (even without thetape) and defines a noticeable ridge in the fabric. This ridge isgenerally visible and even accentuated when in foundation garments overwhich other garments (e.g., shear or close fitting outer garments) areworn. Also, in foundation garments that provide shaping and/or supportthe ridge can cause discomfort, chafing etc., especially where supportand/or shaping are provided.

However, sewn seams, despite these disadvantages, are advantageous anddesirable in many classes of garments that provide support or shape tothe wearer. Sewn seams enable the manufacturer to tailor the garment toprovide support or shape in a particular area (i.e. the area of theseam). Also, the sewn seam enables the manufacturer to join two types ofmaterials together, or to configure the fabric panels joined together bythe seam to provide particular support or shape to the wearer.

One class of garments where the sewn seam finds particular advantage isbrassieres (more commonly referred to as bras). The bra is a complicatedgarment from a manufacturing perspective because it is a garment withcups that define a vaulted three dimensional shape. Often, these cupsare formed from flat panels that are sewn together. The cup portion isformed with a sewn, curved seam in the front between two panels. Theseam provides an advantageous element of support for the wearer at thislocation. This support is especially advantageous for ample breastedwomen. Sewn seams are also advantageous because they allow two differenttypes of material to be joined together by the seam. Thus, themanufacturer can join together two materials, each with distinctcharacteristics and functions in the garment. For example, again in thecontext of a bra cup, a sturdier material that provides support can bejoined with a stretchier material that provides comfort. The sewn seamprovides advantages in other support garments as well. Sewn seams can beplaced in foundation garments at the precise location where support orparticular shape is desired. Thus, from a support/shape perspective, thesewn seam is very advantageous when used in foundation garments andactive wear.

However, the sewn seam has fallen from favor from use in foundationgarments and shape wear for purely aesthetic reasons. Specifically, thevisibly detectable seam ridge is extremely undesirable from a fashionpoint of view. Consequently, seamless constructions have been sought forfoundation garments and active wear. While these solutions do addressthe problem of a highly visible seam, they are deficient from asupport/shaping perspective. For example, bras have been made withseamless cup portions comprising a single piece of fabric. This singlepanel construction offers virtually no support and cannot be used by alarge segment of the female population (typically those women whorequire a large cup bra also require a bra that provides at least somedegree of support).

Bras with molded cups have been offered as an alternative to bras withcups having seams. However, manufacture of the molded cup is laborintensive, since it requires molding the cup to a particularconfiguration. This requires the use of many different molds toapproximate the breast size of the wearer. Also, the process of moldingthe fabric (typically a heat treatment that removes the stretch from anelastic material such as spandex) is time consuming. The molded cup alsomakes very inefficient use of fabric, since rather large areas of fabricfor the cup and the strap/stay portion of garment must be reserved forclamping the cups to the strap/stay portion. These clamped portions aresubsequently removed and discarded, which wastes fabric.

Consequently, fashionable and manufacturable alternatives toconventional multi-ply seams that will provide adequate support andshape for foundations and active wear continue to be sought.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention is applicable to seams for many types of garments.However, it is particularly advantageous in the manufacture offoundation garments, active wear, shape wear and the like type ofgarments (i.e. garments that are configured for fit, support and/orcontrol). The seams of the present invention present a smooth surface,compared to prior art multi-ply seams. The smooth seams are not visuallydetectable when in a foundation garment over which close fitting orshear garments are worn. However, unlike prior art alternatives tomulti-ply seams, the seams of the present invention permit themanufacturer to tailor the garment to provide support, comfort or shapein addition to providing the highly desirable smooth appearance. In thecontext of bras, the present invention provides particular advantageover the molded bra cup solution, since the present invention allows fortailoring the bra cup for fit, comfort and support whereas a molded bracup cannot be so tailored. Also, again compared with multi-ply seams,the seams of the present invention are less likely to irritate or chafeskin in contact with the seam.

In accordance with one embodiment of the present invention, seams areformed of two fabric panels (i.e. a first panel and a second panel),each panel having a first edge. The first edge of the first panel abuts,but does not substantially overlap, the first edge of the second panel.The first and second panels are joined together by an adhesive. Inpreferred embodiments, the edges are connected by a material stripcarrying the adhesive. The adhesive is applied to the material strip inan uncured state. Preferably, the material strip is placed in contactwith the fabric panels to form the seam while the adhesive is stillsubstantially uncured. In another preferred embodiment of the presentinvention, a seam is formed by applying a first material strip carryingadhesive on a first major surface at the interface of the two abuttingfabric panels, followed by cure, and then applying a second materialstrip carrying adhesive on a second, opposing major surface at theinterface of the two fabric panels (again followed by cure).

Although any conventional fabric is contemplated as suitable for thefabric panels, it is advantageous if the fabric panels are syntheticmaterials. Examples of suitable fabrics include synthetic materials suchas polyester, rayon, polyurethane foam, spandex (e.g., Lycra® aregistered trademark of Invista Technologies S.A.R.L.), nylon and thelike materials and natural fiber materials such as cotton and wool. Asone skilled in the art is aware, fabric materials typically carry afinish material which gives a material a particular sheen and/or feel.One skilled in the art is aware that there are a vast number of finishcompositions for fabrics. In the present invention, a fabric finish isselected that will not substantially degrade the adhesion between theadhesive and the fabric panels. One skilled in the art will be able toselect an appropriate finish based upon the particular adhesive used.For example, if a water-based (i.e. hydrophilic) adhesive is used,hydrophobic (e.g., non polar) finishes should be avoided. Silicone-basedfinishes are examples of those finishes that should be avoided when awater-based adhesive is used. With certain adhesives, it may beadvantageous to use unfinished fabrics if possible from anappearance/texture perspective.

Suitable adhesives are those that wet both the fabric and the materialstrip used to join the fabric panels (it is advantageous, but notrequired, that the fabric and material strip be the same material). Theadhesive is applied onto the material strip and placed into contact withthe fabric in an uncured state, and subsequently cured when in contactwith the material strip and fabric panels. It is also advantageous, butnot required, for the adhesive to stretch in its cured state. It isadvantageous if the adhesive will elongate at least one hundred percent(i.e. can stretch to twice its length in its relaxed state). It iscontemplated that the fabric panels will stretch more than the adhesivein at least some embodiments.

Many different adhesives are contemplated as suitable for forming theseam of the present invention. In one embodiment of the presentinvention, thermosetting adhesives are used. As used herein,thermosetting adhesives are adhesives that cure when subjected to athermal cycle of heating followed by cooling. Another characteristic ofthermosetting adhesives is that, once cured, they cannot be remeltedwhen heated.

In another embodiment of the present invention, thermoplastic adhesivesare used. Thermoplastic adhesives, much like thermosetting adhesives,cure when subjected to a thermal cycle of heating and cooling. However,unlike thermosetting adhesives, thermoplastic adhesives can be remeltedafter cure.

Other adhesives that cure using mechanisms other than a thermal cure(e.g., ultraviolet radiation cure) are also contemplated as suitable foruse in the present invention. Again, the requirements are suitableadhesion to fabric and maintaining adhesion and flexibility over timewhen subjected to repeated wear and washing.

In some applications where the fabric panels are relatively thick (e.g.,5 mils or thicker and, more typically about 20 mils or more), such aswhen the fabric is a fiberfill or urethane material, adhesive may beapplied directly to the abutted edges. A strip of material is also usedto carry additional adhesive to form the completed seam in theseembodiments. Forming a seam from relatively thick materials in thismanner ensures that gaps in the finished seam will not form.

In certain preferred embodiments, the seam is formed by applying to thematerial strip a heated, thermosetting adhesive in fluid form. Oneexample of such an adhesive is a polyurethane adhesive (PUR adhesive)manufactured by the National Starch Co. It is advantageous if theadhesive contains additives that allow the seam to stretch along withthe fabric panels joined by the seam. A seam manufactured in accordancewith the present invention is virtually undetectable through clothing,and, when a strip of material is used, as in a brassiere cup, itprovides an element of support which is adequate for most of the femalepopulation.

Although the adhesive, when introduced into contact with the materialstrip, wets the surface of the strip, the amount of adhesive, thethickness of the adhesive and its viscosity are selected to ensure thatthe adhesive does not permeate through the entire thickness of thematerial strip. The reason for this is twofold. If the seam is incontact with the wearer, it is preferred that the wearer not be incontact with the adhesive used to form the seam. If the seam is on theexterior of the garment, it is not desirable for the adhesive to bevisible on the surface of the material strip. The adhesive, if visiblethrough the seam, might give the garment a stained, soiled or otherwiseundesirable appearance.

An apparatus for forming an adhesive seam is also contemplated. Theapparatus has a conveyor that grips and draws two fabric panels intoabutting contact. In one embodiment the conveyor is a dual belt feederthat cooperates with a knurled roller to draw fabric panels into the nipbetween the belts and the roller. Both the belt feeder and roller areprovided with driver assemblies that impart the desired circular motionto the belts and cause the belt and rollers to draw the fabric panelsinto the nip thereof. The apparatus is also equipped with a feedingmechanism that feeds the strip of material from a roll or othermechanism that is suitable to support and dispense such material. As thestrip of material is fed from the dispensing mechanism, adhesive isapplied to the strip of material. The adhesive is applied usingmechanisms such as a spray nozzle, a slot nozzle or a roller coater. Theadhesive is applied to the material in a substantially uncured form.

In another embodiment, at least one of the rollers forming the nip intowhich the fabric is fed and drawn is knurled. At least one of therollers is driven and it is advantageous if both rollers are both drivenand knurled. It is advantageous if the rollers have the same size andmove at the same speed, as such an arrangement provides an even seam.

The roller surfaces can be either flat, concave or convex. It isadvantageous if at least one of the roller surfaces is convex, as thissurface configuration draws the fabric into and through the nipefficiently.

The apparatus feeds the strip of material carrying the adhesive intocontact with the fabric panels in abutting contact such that the stripof material is placed in contact with both panels and bridges the regionwhere the two panels are brought together along substantially the entirelength of that region. Bringing the strip of material into contact withthe fabric panels in this manner, the apparatus forms a seam joining thefirst panel and the second panel.

In an advantageous embodiment, the strip of material is backed withpaper, such that the paper backing is interposed between the strip ofmaterial and the roller. Among other advantages, the paper preventsadhesive, placed on the strip of material to promote adhesion between itand the fabric, from coming into contact with the rollers. After thestrip of material is placed into contact with the fabric panels andbegins to cure, the paper backing is removed from the strip of material.

After the seam is formed, the adhesive is at least partially cured sothat the seam will hold the panels together when the assembled panelsare removed from the apparatus for subsequent processing. The apparatushas a curing station that facilitates at least partial cure of theadhesive. The curing conditions depend upon the adhesive that is used.For example, thermosetting resins are heated to render them sufficientlyviscous for application onto the material strip. Generally, the adhesiveis more viscous (i.e. has a greater resistance to flow) at lowertemperatures. At lower temperatures, the adhesive is applied onto thestrip of material with a greater bead thickness. Generally, atemperature is selected that will ensure a certain minimum degree oftackiness between the panels themselves or between the panels and thestrip of material used to join the panels together.

Such adhesives are cured by subjecting them to cool, moist air. Thus,the curing section for an apparatus in which a thermosetting resin isused to assemble the seam will introduce cool, moist air proximate tothe assembled seam in order to at least partially cure the adhesive. Itis advantageous if the assembled seam is placed on a surface with acontour that somewhat mimics that of the finished seam. Placing the seamon such a surface will prevent the fabric panels from bunching, pulling,etc., which could place the partially cured seam under undue stress.Such stress could cause undesired imperfections in the fully cured seam(e.g., gaps, irregular appearance, etc.). Curing on an appropriatelycontoured surface ensures that the seam will not be subjected to unduemechanical stress during cure. Appropriate curing conditions depend upona number of different factors among them being: 1) the temperature ofthe adhesive when applied to the seam; 2) the thickness of the bead ofadhesive that is deposited to form the seam; 3) the amount of moisturein the air; 4) the temperature of the air; and 5) the volume of aircirculating past the seam as it is cured.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

The foregoing brief description, as well as further objects, features,and advantages of the present invention will be understood morecompletely from the following detailed description of presentlypreferred, but nonetheless illustrative embodiments in accordance withthe present invention, with reference being had to the accompanyingdrawings in which:

FIGS. 1A-1C are schematic diagrams representing a presently preferredprocess for manufacturing a garment seam in accordance with oneembodiment of the present invention;

FIG. 2 illustrates an alternate embodiment of a garment seam inaccordance with the present invention, useful on portions of a garmentmade of fiberfill or urethane;

FIGS. 3A and 3B illustrate an alternate method for the manufacture of abrassier cup using a darted seam in accordance with one embodiment ofthe present invention;

FIG. 4 illustrates a support bra structure according to one embodimentof the present invention;

FIG. 5 illustrates a support bra structure according to a secondembodiment of the present invention;

FIG. 6 is a perspective view of the top belt assembly and bottom rollerassembly for one embodiment of the apparatus of the present invention;

FIG. 7 is a perspective view of the top belt assembly illustrated inFIG. 6;

FIG. 8 is a perspective view of the nip region of the assemblyillustrated in FIG. 6 adjacent the bottom roller assembly;

FIG. 8A is a perspective view of another embodiment of the assemblyillustrated in FIG. 6 in which the top belt assembly is replaced by adriven knurled roller;

FIGS. 9A-B illustrate the top belt assembly illustrated in FIGS. 6-8 inboth its belt up (FIG. 9A) and belt down (FIG. 9B) positions;

FIG. 10 is a top view of a top belt assembly of the present inventionfeeding fabric into the apparatus;

FIG. 11 is another embodiment of the top belt assembly illustrated inFIG. 10 but with a divider between fabric panels as they are fed intothe top belt assembly;

FIG. 12 is a detail view of a spray nozzle suited for use in oneembodiment of the apparatus of the present invention;

FIG. 13 is a detail view of a slot nozzle suited for use in oneembodiment of the apparatus of the present invention;

FIGS. 14A-14C are schematic diagrams of a roller coater suited for usein one embodiment of the apparatus of the present invention with 14A atop plan view, 14B a top plan view with underlying components in phantomand 14C a cut away side view;

FIG. 15 is a side view of an adhesive dispenser for use in oneembodiment of the present invention;

FIG. 16 is a plan view of the midsection of the adhesive dispenserillustrated in FIG. 15;

FIG. 17 is a perspective view of the top section of the adhesivedispenser illustrated in FIG. 15; and

FIG. 18 is a perspective view of a contoured surface on which bra cupscan be placed while the adhesive seam is cured.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

Referring to the drawings, FIGS. 1A-1C are a schematic representation ofseams according to certain embodiments of the present invention. FIG. 1Aillustrates two panels or sheets of fabric 10, 12 in edge-wise abutmentat 13, in preparation for forming a seam. The fabric panels arepreferably made of a synthetic material such as polyester, polyurethane,nylon, rayon, etc. It is advantageous if the fabric panels are smoothbefore the seam is formed. If the material is not sufficiently smooth,it can be calendared. Calendared materials provide a more uniformsurface on which to apply the material strip carrying adhesive. Thisensures that the adhesive contact is uniform, and the seam is lesslikely to bunch when formed than if the fabric is non-calendared.

The fabric panels 10, 12 are typically finished fabrics, although thefabric panels can also be unfinished. Finished fabrics are well known tothose skilled in the art. There are many fabric finishes, each providinga certain feel and appearance to a fabric. If finished, the fabricfinish must be compatible with the adhesive that is used to form theseam. In the context of the present invention, compatible means that theadhesive will adhere to the fabric with the finish thereon. One skilledin the art can readily ascertain how to select a finish that is suitablefor use with a particular adhesive, and vice-versa. For example, if awater-based (i.e. hydrophilic/polar) adhesive is used, then the finishshould not be hydrophobic or non-polar. Silicone-based finishes areexamples of finishes that are not suitable for forming an adhesive seamusing a water-based adhesive. If a fabric has a finish to which theadhesive will not suitably adhere, the problem may be addressed by spraywashing the fabric to remove or modify the finish. Finish properties canalso be modified (e.g., the finish texture can be roughened) bysubjecting the fabric to an electric field. One skilled in the art iswell versed in the materials and conditions required to remove/modify afabric finish, and, as such, they will not be discussed in detailherein.

The fabric panels 10, 12 are illustrated as rectangular, but can be cutto any desired shape or size. One skilled in the art is aware of themany different techniques used to cut fabric panels for use in garmentmanufacture. Such techniques include Gerber cutting, die cutting andlaser cutting. It is advantageous if the fabric panels are cut using themore precise techniques of laser cutting, sonic cutting or die cutting.Laser cutting, sonic cutting, hydro cutting and die cutting providefabric panels with smoother, more uniform edges compared with otherconventional techniques for cutting fabric (e.g., Gerber cutting). It iseasier to abut fabric panels with smooth, uniform edges, and panels withsuch edges are less likely to bunch or otherwise deform in a manner thatmight result in a non-uniform seam. In this regard, seam imperfections(e.g., dents or holes at the seam edge) may not adversely affect themechanical integrity of the seam. However, such imperfections may not beacceptable from an appearance perspective. In a preferred embodiment ofthe present invention, the fabric panels are cut from the fabric usinglaser cutting, hydro cutting or sonic cutting. Although applicants donot wish to be held to a particular theory, it is applicants' beliefthat laser cutting and sonic cutting are more accurate and thereforeprovide for a more consistent and uniform cut. This ensures greaterconformity of the edges of the two fabric panel that are broughttogether in abutted alignment. Also, applicants also believe that lasercutting and die cutting fuse, at least somewhat, the fibers at the cutedge of the fabric panels. This also allows the fabric panels to befitted together more precisely, providing for a smoother seam that isless visible under clothing.

The material and thickness of the fabric panels is largely a matter ofdesign choice. While there is no requirement that the fabric panels bethe same material, there are certain constraints when differentmaterials are used. One constraint is the finish on the materials. Whilethere is no requirement that the materials have the same finish, thefinishes should permit a comparable degree of adhesion between the paneland the adhesive. In this regard, one panel should not have ahydrophilic finish when the other has a hydrophobic finish, for example.Another constraint is thickness. While there is no requirement that thefabric panels be of identical thickness, it is advantageous if they areof similar thicknesses. A substantial difference in thickness betweenthe two panels (e.g., one panel is more than fifty percent thicker thanthe other panel) will result in an uneven seam that is more likely to bevisible through shear or clingy garments worn over any such seamcompared to a seam formed from two panels of substantially equalthickness.

In FIG. 1B, an elongated strip of material, preferably a length ofmaterial 14 is wetted with a liquid adhesive material 16. For purposesof this illustration, the adhesive is depicted as being sprayed onto thematerial. However, there are many different ways in which the adhesivecan be applied to the material in a more controlled manner (e.g., slotnozzle or roller coater). The mechanisms for applying the adhesive arediscussed in greater detail below.

The piece of material used to join together the two fabric panels isreferred to herein as a strip. While the term strip typically connotes along and narrow configuration, the term strip, as used herein, is meantto include a piece of material of any suitable configuration. The stripof material is also of any suitable thickness. While any thickness iscontemplated, it is advantageous if the thickness of the material stripis less than the thickness of the fabric panels. Thicker strips, whilecontemplated, are contrary to the objectives of the present invention,which is to provide a less noticeable seam. In preferred embodiments,the strip of material is thicker than the adhesive applied thereon. Thisensures that the adhesive will not wet through the strip of material.Examples of suitable thicknesses for the material strip are in the rangeof about 1 mil (a mil is 1/1000 of an inch) to about 7 mils thick.

The weave of the strip is selected to prevent adhesive from penetratingthrough the thickness of the strip. As previously noted, this preventsthe adhesive from being visible on the surface of the material strip,resulting in an undesirable appearance. This also prevents adhesive frompenetrating through the material strip on the underside of the seam,which would result in adhesive being adjacent the skin of the wearer.This could result in skin irritation or other discomfort to the wearer.Again, the objective is to prevent the adhesive from penetrating throughthe thickness of the strip. Again, this is a feature that provides aseam with an advantageous appearance and is not required to ensure themechanical integrity of the seam.

Various materials and material thicknesses may be selected for theelongated strip of material, depending on the application. Typically thematerial will be the same as or similar to the panel material, althoughthis is not required. If the material is finished, the finish must notinhibit the adherence of the adhesive, as described above. The thicknessof the material strip is largely a matter of design choice, and will begoverned largely by the desired appearance of the seam. For example,strips having a thickness that will show through outerwear are lessdesirable. The one requirement is that the strip of material be at leastas thick, and preferably thicker, than the adhesive applied to andcarried by the strip of material. In one embodiment, the material is atricot knit fabric material having a thickness of about 1 mil to about 7mils and a width in the range of about 3/32″ to about ¼″. However, thoseskilled in the art will appreciate that strips made of many differentmaterials and with many different sizes may be used.

The width of the strip of fabric material is also a matter of designchoice. Typically, the strip of fabric material will have a width ofabout 0.25 inches to about 0.75 inches. However, widths outside thisrange are contemplated.

As noted above, it is advantageous if the strip of fabric material doesnot have an open weave that will allow the adhesive to penetrate throughthe thickness of the strip of material. However, it is advantageous ifthe strip of material does stretch at least somewhat in both the lengthand width directions. This provides the seam with a bit of give, whichadds some additional adjustability and thus comfort for the wearer.However, although desirable, the degree of stretch in the widthdirection should never be such that gaps form in the seam due to thedegree of stretch provided by the strip of fabric material.

One skilled in the art is aware that degree to which fabrics stretch isalmost unlimited. Some fabrics have a weave and material that providesfor very little (i.e. almost zero percent) stretch. In the context ofthe present invention, the percent to which a fabric stretches is thedifference in the dimension of the fabric in the direction of thestretching force compared to that dimension when the fabric is in itsrelaxed state (i.e. no stretching force applied) as a percent of thedimension of the fabric in its relaxed state. As one skilled in the artis aware, fabrics stretch up to two hundred (200) percent or evenhigher.

Thus, except for the constraints on open weave stated above, the seam ofthe present invention can be formed using a material strip and fabricpanels with any degree of stretch (including zero degrees). Certainconsiderations might inform the selection of a particular degree ofstretch, chief among them being the need to avoid a seam that willstretch to form gaps between the panels. This consideration creates agreater degree of tolerance for stretch in the length direction than inthe width direction. Also, since in certain embodiments, the adhesivealso stretches up to one hundred percent, one will typically selectfabric panels, material strip and adhesives with a commensurate degreeof stretch.

As noted above, many different adhesives are contemplated as suitable.The selected adhesive will adequately adhere to the fabric panelsforming the seam and the finish on such panels. Furthermore theadhesive, once cured, must remain supple over time even through repeatedwearings and washings of the garment. Examples of suitable adhesivesinclude thermosetting adhesives and thermoplastic adhesives. One exampleof a thermoplastic adhesive is Griltex® copolyester adhesive.Thermoplastic adhesives are contemplated as useful for forming a seamwhen the fabric panels are knitted or woven fabric. In one embodiment,it is advantageous if the adhesive contains a dye so that is at leastsomewhat matches the color of the fabric panels and/or the materialstrip. Dyes or other additives suitable for coloring adhesive are wellknown in the art and not described in detail herein. The color of theselected dye depends upon, for example, the color of the fabric panelsand the material strip and the degree of match between the adhesive andthe fabric panel/material strip that is sought. Also, the dye or othercolor additive must be chemically compatible with the adhesive. Forexample, if the adhesive is water-based, then the dye would also bewater-based. Conversely, if the adhesive is hydrophobic, then the dyewould also be hydrophobic.

One example of a thermosetting adhesive is a polyurethane based adhesivesuch as PUR from National Starch Inc. In order to provide an adhesivewith sufficient stretch when cured, additives can be included with theadhesive. One skilled in the art is aware of suitable additives forthermosetting adhesives that increase the stretch in the cured adhesive.In certain preferred embodiments, the adhesive is one that cures whencooled, and the cure is accelerated in a moist air environment.

In the embodiment of the present invention in which a thermosettingadhesive is used, the adhesive is heated in a container under pressure.An inert atmosphere is provided to pressurize the adhesive. In oneembodiment, the inert atmosphere is an argon atmosphere. In anotherembodiment, the inert atmosphere is super-dried air. Nitrogen is yetanother example of an inert atmosphere. In the context of dispensingadhesive, an inert atmosphere is one in which the adhesive does notsubstantially cure. The adhesive is dispensed either by pressure fromthe inert atmosphere alone or by use of a mechanical pump. The adhesivematerial is dispensed in liquid form. In the embodiment wherepressurized argon is used to dispense the adhesive, approximately fivepounds of argon pressure is all that is required to accomplish thisobjective. The material cures when cooled in ambient air and the cure isaccelerated if the air is moist. The greater the amount of moisture inthe air, the faster the cure. The preferred adhesive is a thick pastethat is heated to be converted to a liquid form. The melting temperaturewill depend upon the particular adhesive used. Specifically an adhesivewith a melting temperature that is less than the temperature that wouldadversely affect the fabric panels being attached with the seam ispreferred. For example, if fabric panels will be adversely affected bytemperatures higher than 350° F., adhesives with a melting temperaturehigher than about 350° F. should be avoided. Similarly, if the fabriccan withstand temperatures of about 300° F. or less, then and adhesivewith a melting temperature of less than about 300° F. should be used.

Adhesives that require temperatures of greater than 350° F. to be inliquid form are less preferred because the synthetic materials used forthe strip of material and fabric panels might be damaged if placed intocontact with a substance at such higher temperatures. Also, hightemperatures are preferably avoided for operator safety. It isadvantageous if the uncured adhesive melts at temperatures in the rangeof about 220° F. to about 280° F., and more preferably temperatures ofabout 220° F. to about 260° F. and is sufficiently liquid (i.e. have aviscosity that is sufficiently low) at these temperatures to facilitateapplication onto the strip of material. In this regard, adhesives withcuring temperatures in the lower half of the aforesaid range have atackiness when the adhesive is applied to the strip that provides foradvantageous handling of the seam prior to cure. In any event,overheating is to be avoided as it can cause the adhesive to discolor(e.g., turn yellow). This can cause a less than desirable appearance.

In this regard, it is also advantageous if the fabric itself is heatedwhen the seam is formed. Heated fabric is less prone to wrinkle, and asmooth seam will more likely result with the fabric is heated. Again theupper limit on temperature is the heat tolerance of the fabric itself.There is no need to heat the fabric to a temperature in excess of themelting temperature of the adhesive.

The adhesive is applied using any suitable mechanism. A roller coaterprovides uniformity and controlled application, but other mechanismssuch as a slot nozzle or a spray nozzle are also contemplated assuitable. A slot nozzle provides a bead of adhesive and thereforepermits the application of adhesive directly onto the strip at acontrolled thickness. A spray nozzle permits a large amount of adhesiveto be applied quickly but the amount of “overspray” onto other surfacesis greater with a spray nozzle than with a slot nozzle or roller coater.Those skilled in the art will appreciate that adhesive may be applied byany other conventional method that will allow it to wet the strip ofmaterial 14. Application conditions (e.g., adhesive thickness) arecontrolled to prevent the adhesive from bleeding through the strip ofmaterial. For example, if the strip of material is about 7 mils thick,the adhesive is applied using conditions (e.g., thickness, viscosity,etc.) that limit the penetration of the adhesive into the strip ofmaterial to about 5 mils or less.

In FIG. 1C, the strip of material 14 now carrying the liquid adhesive 16is placed over the region of edge-wise abutment 13, thereby forming anadhesive seam 15. FIG. 1C shows the strip of material 14, after it hasreceived the adhesive 16, applied over the abutted joint 13 between thefabric sheets 10, 12. It is not required to apply pressure to the stripof material 14 during initial cure but only to hold the panels 10 and 12stationary. The preferred adhesive cures if exposed to an ambientatmosphere, but curing can be accelerated by exposing it to moist (i.e.humid) and/or cold air. One example of suitably moist air is ambient airwith at least about forty percent humidity. In embodiments described indetail below, once the strip of material 14 is in position, a stream 18of cool, moist air is directed at the strip of material 14. Thisinitiates curing of the adhesive, whereupon the tape and the edges ofthe sheets 10, 12 are retained together by the adhesive to form a seam15. This permits the fabric seam to be handled without separating theseam.

As previously noted, it is advantageous if the fabric seam is placed ona surface with a contour that mimics the contour of the fabric article.Such an arrangement avoids mechanical stress on the seam as it cures.

Although the seam depicted in FIG. 1C illustrates the strip of materialon one surface of the fabric panels 10 and 12. It is contemplated thatthe strip of material 14 will be adhered to the opposing surface ofpanels 10 and 12 to form a two-sided seam. In these embodiments, oncethe first strip of material 14 is applied to join together panels 10 and12, the seam assembly is turned over and a second strip of material (notshown) is applied on the opposing side.

Adhesive-backed strips have been used in garment manufacture for eithergarment hems or elastic edges. The adhesive strips used for thesepurposes are not suited for making seams, especially seams with cornersor curves such as the seams found in bra cups. The adhesive-back stripsare supplied with the adhesive pre-applied on the strip (i.e. well inadvance (e.g., at least hours, more likely days and typically weeks) ofusing the strip to make the garment) and partially cured. The adhesiveis therefore in a solid state and the strips must be reheated when thestrip is applied to the seam. Solid adhesive is less preferable to theadhesive applied in liquid form, as described herein. In the presentinvention, the liquid adhesive is applied to the material strip onlymoments before the seam is formed. Corner and curved seams are readilyformed using the material strip carrying liquid adhesive as describedherein.

One advantage of the present invention is that, since the panels 10 and12 are in abutted alignment for seam formation, the need for a seamallowance is avoided. A sewn seam needs to have a seam allowance (i.e.extra material) where the panel edges are sewn together. Thus a portionof each panel extends beyond the sewn seam. This extended edge portionis plowed open and sewn as discussed above. The extended edge portionserves no purpose in the garment (it is typically in the inside of thegarment, hidden from view). In the present invention, there is no needfor a seam allowance, since the edges are abutted and the adhesive seamis formed at the abutment of the two edges. The panels do not extendbeyond the abutted region. Therefore, the fabric panels can be cut tothe exact size that is required for the garment, without the need for aseam allowance. Thus, the present invention provides a significantsaving of material by avoiding the need for a seam allowance.

The present invention provides particular advantage in the manufactureof bra cups. In the manufacture of bra cups, a substantial amount ofmanual labor is required. This is especially true in the case of moldedcups that require time and labor to shape into different sizes. Inaddition, in prior art methods for bra manufacture, the fabric must becut oversized in order to provide clamping areas, which eventuallybecome waste material. Accordingly, the seams of the present inventionwill save a substantial amount of material when used to manufacturebras. In addition, those skilled in the art will appreciate that theprocess for forming the adhesive seams described generally above iscapable of being automated. Using an automated process for bramanufacture also provides significant advantages over prior arttechniques for making bras which are more highly customized andtherefore more labor intensive.

Various modifications to the process described above are contemplated,and those skilled in the art will appreciate that modifications inaddition to those describe herein are possible without departing fromthe scope and spirit of the invention. For example, adhesive might beapplied to the fabric panels rather than the strip of material.Alternately, tape (i.e. a strip of material already carrying anadhesive) could be provided, for example, in rolls. The tape is thenheated to liquefy the adhesive prior to applying the tape to the seam.In yet another modification, the heat may be applied after the tape isplaced into contact with the fabric panels. This allows the seam to beformed in one quick operation. Also, the panels can be lightly stitchedtogether (i.e. basted) either before or after the adhesive seam isformed for additional seam integrity. Since the objective of the presentinvention is to provide a less visible, more comfortable seam it ispreferable that the material strip carrying adhesive be applied over anysuch stitching.

In yet another embodiment, the strip of material is applied with a paperbacking. Once adhesive is applied to the front side of the strip ofmaterial, and the strip of material is placed into contact with thefabric panels to form the seam, the paper backing is removed from thestrip of material.

FIG. 2 is an alternate embodiment of a fabric seam formed in accordancewith the present invention. In this case, the panels 10′ and 12′ arerelatively thick sheets of material (e.g., thicknesses greater thanabout 1/16″ and up to about one inch or more). Examples of these thickermaterials include fiberfill, urethane, foam and the like materials. Suchmaterials are commonly used for bra cups. In this case, the adhesive 16′is provided between the abutted edges defining the seam, to retain them.The embodiment of the seam in FIG. 2 can be reinforced by applying amaterial strip carrying adhesive (not shown) over the abutted faces ofpanels 10′ and 12′.

FIGS. 3A and 3B illustrate an alternate construction and manufacturingprocess for a bra cup. In this case, the fabric panel 10″ is formed witha triangular cut-out or “dart” 20. As shown in FIG. 3B, the cup isassembled by bringing the edges forming the dart 20 into abutment andcovering the abutting edges with a material strip 14′ carrying adhesivein the manner already described. If the fabric 10″ is fiberfill,urethane or the like, the edges of the dart 20 could be secured togetherwith adhesive, as illustrated in FIG. 2. This would result in theformation of a perfectly smooth cup, without the need for molding.

FIG. 4 illustrates a bra 100 with a supporting cup structure 110. Thiscup material is urethane foam. Generally rectangular upper panel 112 andtwo roughly triangular lower panels 114 and 116 are joined together in a“T” pattern. A material strip 120 is adhered to the fabric panels in theseam region. The material strip 120 reinforces the seam, making itstronger, and providing enhanced support.

FIG. 5 illustrates a further support bra cup structure 130. Structuresmade from left and right urethane foam panels 131, 132. In this case,the single strip of material 134 is shown schematically in FIGS. 1A-1C.However, it will be appreciated that it could also be manufactured withtwo strips of material one on each major surface of panels 131 and 132.Since the panels 131 and 132 are thicker urethane material, adhesive canbe introduced onto the abutted edges of the foam panels 131, 132. Thisadhesive is in addition to, and not in place of, the adhesive carried bythe strip of material 134.

Referring to FIG. 6, there is illustrated an apparatus 200 for abuttingtwo panels of material (not shown) and placing the abutted panels intocontact with a strip of material carrying adhesive. The apparatus 200feeds the two panels of material and the strip of material through theapparatus so that the strip of material forms a seam over the buttedportions of the panels.

The apparatus 200 has a top belt assembly 210 and a bottom rollerassembly 220. The top belt assembly is configured to feed two fabricpanels (not shown) into abutting contact with each other when fed intothe nip 201 defined by the top belt assembly 210 and bottom rollerassembly 220. Roller 222 is mounted on a slant post 221 which allows thepanels of material to naturally curve as they pass through the nipregion 201 defined by top belt assembly 210 and roller 220.

FIG. 7 is a detail view of the top belt assembly 210. The top beltassembly has two belts, a right belt 211 and a left belt 212. Both aredriven by roller 215. Each belt is used to feed a garment panel (notshown) into abutting contact with another garment panel and maintain theabutting contact while the strip of material supporting the adhesive isapplied thereto. In the embodiment of the present invention where thegarment is a bra cup, the two panels of the cup are fed into the topassembly. One panel is gripped and advanced into the apparatus 200 byright belt 211, the other panel being gripped and advanced by left belt212. The tension in each belt 211, 212 is independently controlled byrespective right 213 and left 214 lift cylinders. This is particularlyadvantageous in those embodiments where the first and second fabricpanels have different thicknesses. The movement of the right and leftbelts 211, 212 is controlled by stepper motor (not shown) via shaft 215.

FIG. 8 is a detail view of the top belt assembly 210 and the bottomroller assembly 220. A piece of fabric 235 supported by table 230 is inthe background. As illustrated in FIG. 8 material 235 has been fedthrough the nip region 240 between top belt assembly 210 and bottomroller assembly 220. The roller assembly 220 is on a slanted, post-typesupport 221, allowing contoured garment panels to naturally curvethrough the nip region 240. This avoids undue stress being placed uponthe newly formed seam, and makes it less likely that the seam will beforced apart before the adhesive is cured.

An alternate configuration of the assembly 200 illustrated in FIG. 6 isillustrated in FIG. 8A. In FIG. 8A, the nip region 201 has a directlydriven top roller 213 instead of the dual belt assembly illustrated inFIG. 8. The top roller 213 is knurled, as is bottom roller 222. In thisembodiment, top paper 214 is fed over top roller 213 and into nip region201. Bottom paper 216 is fed under bottom roller 222 and into nip region201. As the fabric panels (not shown) are fed into the nip region 201,and adhesive/adhesive strip (also not shown) is applied thereto, thepaper 214, 216 are placed on the back of the seam so formed. Thisprevents glue that is used to form the seam from getting on the rollers213, 222. As previously discussed, the paper backing 214, 216 is easilyremoved from the seam after the fabric panels are removed from apparatus200 but prior to complete adhesive cure.

Many different types of paper are contemplated as suitable. In oneembodiment, standard craft paper (i.e. paper with a thickness of 5/7000″(7.143×10⁻⁴ inches)) is contemplated as suitable. The thickness isselected so that the craft paper can act as an effective barrier betweenthe glue dispensed onto the fabric strip and the rollers, 213 and 222.In this regard, it is advantageous if the width of the paper backing isapproximately equal to the width of the rollers.

The top belt assembly 210 is equipped with a front belt lifting unitillustrated in FIGS. 9A-9B. Referring to FIG. 9A, the lifting assembly250 is pivotally mounted on main belt support 255. Tension rods 251,252, pull back on lifting assembly 250, thereby causing the frontportion of belts 211, 212 to lift above table 230. Note that only thefront portion of belts 211, 212 is so lifted. Belt support 255 keeps thebelts 211, 212 in contact with bottom roller 222 (FIG. 8). Again, in thecontext of bra manufacture, lifting assembly 250 allows an operator tojoin two cup panels and to insert a second set of cup panels immediatelyfollowing. Such a continuous feeding mechanism avoids uncured adhesivefrom depositing on the roller and belt assemblies. Referring to FIG. 9B,once the garment panels have been fed into the belt assembly 210, thelifting assembly 250 is pivoted down to better grip and advance thegarment panels.

Referring to FIG. 10, the top belt assembly 210 is illustrated advancinggarment panels 235′, 235″ therethrough. Garment panels 235′, 235″ areadvanced through the nip between the top belt assembly 210 and thebottom roller assembly (not shown) to form the seam therebetween. InFIG. 10, the lifting assembly 250 is in its up position and ready toreceive another garment panel.

In the embodiment illustrated in FIG. 10 a reflective surface portion265 is placed on the work table 230. The reflective surface is placed inthe path of the advancing garment panel, which is indicated by arrow260. An optical sensing assembly 270 is provided to sense a break in thefeed of garment panels. The optical sensing assembly is equipped with aphotosensor head 271 that emits a signal directed toward reflectivesurface 265. When garment panels are passing over reflective surface265, any signal that is reflected back to photosensor head 271 is weak.However, if there is a break or gap in the advancing garment panels suchthat reflective surface 265 is uncovered, then the signal reflected backto photosensor head 271 is stronger. This stronger signal is transmittedvia optical fiber 272 to optical sensing assembly 270. Sensing a breakin the garment material, the optical assembly sends a signal back to theapparatus to stop the movement of the belts 211, 212.

Referring to FIG. 11, the work plate 230 is configured with divider 280.The divider 280 serves to guide garment panels 235′ and 235″ intoabutted alignment. The guide works by ensuring that garment panel 235′is guided/advanced by belt 211 and garment panel 235″ is guided/advancedby belt 212. Garment panels 235′ and 235″ are two halves that will bejoined together to form a bra cup.

As previously noted, the liquid adhesive is dispensed onto the strip ofmaterial using a variety of different dispensing mechanisms. A spraynozzle 300 suited for spraying liquid adhesive onto the strip ofmaterial is illustrated in FIG. 12. The nozzle 300 has an adhesive inlet310 and an air inlet 320 for forcing the adhesive through nozzle 340.The nozzle assembly 300 is also equipped with a needle valve 350. Theneedle valve 350 is adjusted using the adjustment screw 351 to controlthe force, spray volume and area of the adhesive dispensed by nozzle end340. In order to avoid clogging nozzle end 340 with cured adhesive oncethe nozzle is turned of, needle valve 350 is configured to projectthrough nozzle 340 when turned off, thereby forcing all of the adhesiveout of nozzle 340.

Another embodiment of a liquid adhesive dispensing mechanism isillustrated in FIG. 13. FIG. 13 illustrates a slot nozzle 400. The slotnozzle 400 has a slot 401 that is placed proximate roller 222 of bottomroller assembly 220. Hose 405 delivers adhesive to slot nozzle 400. Thestrip of material (not shown) is conveyed by roller 222 past slot nozzle400, where liquid adhesive is dispensed thereon. The strip of materialis then advanced into the nip 240 between bottom roller assembly 220 andtop belt assembly 210. In the nip region 240 the material strip carryingadhesive is placed into contact with abutting garment panels (also notshown) fed into the nip 240 by the top belt assembly 210. Optionally,paper backing (FIG. 8A) is also fed through nip region 240 in a mannersuch that the paper backing is interposed between the strip of materialand the roller 222/belts 211, 212.

Yet another embodiment of a liquid adhesive dispensing mechanism isillustrated in FIGS. 14A-C FIG. 14A is a top view of guide assembly 501of roller coater 500 (FIG. 14B) and illustrating top roller 514, coatingroller 510 and material guide roller 520. Material guide roller 520 andmaterial guide 521 cooperate to feed the material to be coated (notshown) to the nip between top roller 514 and coating roller 510.Material guide 521 is adjustable to accommodate material with a varietyof thicknesses. Coating roller 510 is similarly adjustable, or can bechanged out so that the roller width and material width are comparable.It is advantageous if the roller coater is adjustable to accommodatematerial strips up to at least one inch in thickness. The goal is tocontrol the amount of excess adhesive (i.e., adhesive dispensed from theroller coater but not applied onto the strip of material). Referring toFIG. 14C a side view illustrates coating roller 510 receiving adhesive512 from supply roller 530 that has a surface 531 that receives adhesivefrom reservoir 540. The strip of material is fed through the nip 514between top roller 514 and coating roller 510. Referring to FIG. 14B,the roller coater 500 is also equipped with an eccentric cam 550.Eccentric cam 550 is used to adjust the position of adhesive doctorblade 551 (FIG. 14C). Adhesive doctor blade 551 removes excess adhesive512 from coating roller 510. The excess adhesive 551 removed fromcoating roller 510 flows downward back into reservoir 540.

The material guide 521 is adjusted to ensure that the material is guidedinto place for proper feeding into the nip 514 between top roller 511and coating roller 510. One feature of material guide 521 is aircylinder 522. Air cylinder 522 is used to lift material guide 521 toremove the material strip (not shown) from contact with the adhesiveroller. This is useful when the apparatus is about to be stopped and onedoes not wish to add adhesive to the remaining material as the finalportion of the material strip carrying adhesive is advanced toward thelast set of fabric panels before the apparatus is turned off. Otheraspects of the material guide 521 are not shown in detail but arereadily understood and implemented by one skilled in the art. Thesefeatures include adjustable sides to guide 521 to accommodate materialstrips in a variety of widths.

Typically, the rotating speed of the top and bottom rollers is adjustedto control the rate at which the fabric/strip of material/paper is fedinto the nip of the apparatus. However, the roller coater is optionallyequipped with a stepper motor (not shown). The stepper motor controlsthe speed at which the strip of material carrying adhesive is dispensedfrom the roller coater. This speed needs to be compatible with the speedat which the panels are fed into abutting alignment by the apparatus, toensure that the seam is formed as the panels are fed through theapparatus.

As noted above, one type of adhesive that is contemplated for use in thepresent invention is a thermoset adhesive that cures permanently whensubjected to heat and subsequently cooled. In the context of the presentinvention, a permanent cure is one where the adhesive, once cured, willnot remelt when subjected to elevated temperatures post cure. Typicallythe cure of such adhesives is accelerated when the adhesive is exposedto moist air. The greater the amount of moisture, the faster the cure.The cure is accelerated if the moist air is cooler (i.e. roomtemperature or below). While one skilled in the art can design a numberof different apparatus that are configured to handle and dispense suchadhesives, the following apparatus is one example of such an apparatus.This apparatus is more completely described in U.S. patent applicationSer. No. 11/186,061, filed Jul. 22, 2005 and entitled “Method of GarmentManufacturing Method Using Thermosetting Adhesively-Attached Seams” andincorporated by reference herein.

The exemplary apparatus 600 is illustrated in FIG. 15. Apparatus 600 hastwo sections, 610 and 620. Section 610 receives a container of adhesive.Section 610 is also equipped with heat jacket 612 for heating theadhesive within container 611. Section 620 has a reservoir 621 thatreceives adhesive that drains from section 610. Section 620 is alsoequipped with a heat jacket 623, so that the adhesive that drains intoreservoir 621 also remains at elevated temperature. Section 620 is alsoequipped with cylinder 633 that provides pressure to reservoir 621.Pressure is provided in the form of an inert atmosphere (i.e., inertfrom the perspective of adhesive cure). Examples of inert atmospheres,in this context, are pressurized moisture free air, argon or nitrogengas. If air is selected, it is advantageous if the air is superheated(i.e. heated with little to no moisture) to ensure that the adhesiveremains at elevated temperature and does not begin to cure when in theapparatus 600. As previously noted, the specific temperature will dependupon the adhesive, and the selected adhesive will have a meltingtemperature that will not damage the fabric panels to be joined by theadhesive. Although some fabrics can tolerate temperatures in excess of400° F., typically temperatures will be 350° F. or less. Because ofmanufacturing considerations (lower energy costs, operator safety, etc.)temperatures in the range of about 260° F. to 280° F. are consideredadvantageous and adhesives with melting temperatures in this range aretherefore preferred. The pressure forces the adhesive from reservoir 621out through nozzle 624. Nozzle 624 is connected by hose (not shown) toan adhesive delivery device (e.g., the slot nozzle illustrated in FIG.13). The apparatus also has intermediate plate 630 which is illustratedin detail in FIG. 16. The apparatus has top lid 661, which isillustrated in detail in FIG. 17.

FIG. 16 illustrates intermediate plate 630 that separates the topsection 610 from the bottom section 620 in FIG. 15. Plate 630 isequipped with annular seals 631 to ensure that ambient air does notenter the apparatus 600, and more particularly the container 611 orreservoir 621, when sealed. Plate 630 is also equipped with a cylinder632 to ensure that an air tight seal is maintained when the apparatus issealed. Plate 630 is also equipped with a retractable knife 633 foropening the adhesive container placed in upper section 610. Theretractable knife 633 is pneumatically actuated to pierce the bottom ofthe can of adhesive once placed in the apparatus 600.

Referring to FIG. 17, container 611 is shown being placed in top section610 of apparatus 600. Lid 661 pivots to permit the placement of thecontainer 611 within the apparatus. The heating jacket 612 surrounds thecontainer 611 when placed in the apparatus, providing uniform heating tothe adhesive within the container 611. The top section 610 is springloaded 623 to ensure contact and, therefore, good heat conduction,between the jacket 612 and the container 611. Cover 660 is equipped withpneumatic can punch mechanism 662. This mechanism 662, when actuated,will puncture a hole in the container 611. Alternate embodiments employan external punch. The hole permits the adhesive to flow from thecontainer 611 into the underlying reservoir 621 (FIG. 15) when thebottom of the container 611 is punctured by the retractable knife 633(FIG. 16).

As previously noted, one example of a suitable adhesive is supplied incans as a thick paste, which must be heated to be converted to theliquid form in which it is used. It takes about 20 to about 30 minutesto heat the adhesive to a temperature sufficient to cause it to meltinto a liquid form that is sufficiently fluid to be applied onto thematerial. As previously noted, the adhesive in liquid form must be keptsealed from the ambient atmosphere to ensure that the adhesive does notbegin to cure while in the apparatus. The adhesive can be retained inthe apparatus under a blanket of dry, moisture free air or nitrogen andmaintained in an uncured state. Since the apparatus has a lowerreservoir 621, an empty container 611 can be replaced with a full canand the adhesive in the new can heated and melted before the lowerreservoir is empty of adhesive. This ensures continuous operation.

As previously noted, the adhesive cures in the presence of ambient air.In order to affect a more rapid cure, cool, moist air (e.g., roomtemperature and at least forty percent humidity) is directed onto thenewly formed seam. The cool, moist air causes the cure to occur at afaster rate. This allows the seam to set more quickly, making it lesslikely to come apart when the garment is moved following seam formation.

Referring to FIG. 18, there is illustrated a holder 700 that provides acontoured surface that mimics the contour of the adhesive seam.Specifically holder 700 had a surface 710 that supports a plurality ofstands 720. These stands 720 have a pedestal portion 725 that supports acontoured top portion 730. The contoured top portion is configured tomimic the contour of the adhesive seam 735 for bra cup 740. Curing thebra cups 740 in this manner avoids placing the fabric panels 745 on asurface that will cause the fabric panels to wrinkle during cure.Wrinkles in the fabric panel during cure can cause the seam 735 todeform during cure, which can result in a cured seam with a less thanuniform, and therefore less desirable, appearance.

Although the invention herein has been described with reference toparticular embodiments, it is to be understood that these embodimentsare merely illustrative of the principles and applications of thepresent invention. It is therefore to be understood that numerousmodifications, additions and substitutions may be made to theillustrative embodiments without departing from the scope and spirit ofthe invention, or that other arrangements may be devised withoutdeparting from the spirit and scope of the present invention.

1. A method for forming a seam at an interface between at least twopanels of fabric, each panel having at least one edge comprising:bringing into abutted alignment the edges of the at least two fabricpanels, thereby defining an interface region; applying liquid adhesiveonto the interface region; applying a material strip along the interfaceregion; and curing the adhesive to form an adhesive seam.
 2. The methodof claim 1 wherein each of the at least two fabric panels has a firstside and a second side and wherein a first adhesive seam is formed onthe interface on the first side and a second adhesive seam is formed onthe interface on the second side.
 3. The method of claim 1 wherein thefabric panels are made of a material selected from the group consistingof natural fibers, synthetic materials and blends of natural fibers andsynthetic materials.
 4. The method of claim 3 where in the syntheticfibers are selected from the group consisting of polyester, rayon,polyurethane foam, spandex and nylon.
 5. The method of claim 3 whereinthe natural fibers are selected from the group consisting of cotton andwool.
 6. The method of claim 1 wherein the liquid adhesive is selectedfrom the group consisting of thermosetting adhesive, thermoplasticadhesive and radiation-curable adhesive.
 7. The method of claim 1wherein the liquid adhesive is applied onto the material strip and thematerial strip carrying the liquid adhesive is applied along theinterface.
 8. The method of claim 3 wherein the fabric panels aresynthetic materials selected from the group consisting of fiberfill andpolyurethane foam having a thickness of at least 5 mils.
 9. The methodof claim 8 further comprising placing liquid adhesive on the edges ofthe fabric panels before the edges are brought into abutted alignment toform the interface region.
 10. The method of claim 1 further comprisingapplying a paper backing to the material strip before the material stripis applied to the interface.
 11. The method of claim 10 furthercomprising removing the paper backing from the material strip before theliquid adhesive is substantially cured.
 12. The method of claim 8wherein the adhesive is at least partially cured before the step ofremoving the paper backing.
 13. The method of claim 1 wherein theadhesive is at least partially cured by exposing the adhesive to moistambient air.
 14. The method of claim 1 further comprising placing theseam on a contoured surface that substantially mimics the contour of theadhesive seam during at least some portion of the curing step.
 15. Themethod of claim 1 wherein the thickness of the strip of material isthicker than the thickness of the adhesive applied thereon.
 16. Themethod of claim 1 wherein the fabric panels are calendared.
 17. Themethod of claim 1 wherein the fabric panels are finished and furthercomprising the step of selecting an adhesive that adheres to the fabricpanels with the finish thereon.
 18. The method of claim 17 wherein thefinish and adhesive are both water-based.
 19. The method of claim 17wherein the finish and adhesive are both hydrophobic.
 20. The method ofclaim 1 further comprising cutting fabric to form the panels.
 21. Themethod of claim 20 wherein the step of cutting is selected from thegroup consisting of Gerber cutting, die cutting, sonic cutting, hydrocutting and laser cutting.
 22. The method of claim 1 wherein the fabricpanels are substantially the same thickness.
 23. The method of claim 1wherein the adhesive is applied to the interface region by one of eitherspray coating or nozzle coating.
 24. The method of claim 7 wherein theadhesive is applied to the material strip by roller coating.
 25. Themethod of claim 1 wherein the material strip has a thickness of about 1mil to about 8 mils.
 26. The method of claim 1 wherein the liquidadhesive is stored in an inert atmosphere prior to applying the adhesiveto the material strip.
 27. The method of claim 26 wherein the inertatmosphere is selected from the group consisting of nitrogen, argon andsuper-dried air.
 28. The method of claim 1 wherein the uncured liquidadhesive melts at a temperature in the range of about 220° F. to about280° F.
 29. The method of claim 28 wherein the uncured liquid adhesivemelts at a temperature in the range of about 220° F. to about 260° F.30. The method of claim 13 wherein the moist ambient air has at leastabout forty percent relative humidity.
 31. The method of claim 1 whereinthe two fabric panels and adhesive seam together form a bra cup.
 32. Themethod of claim 23 wherein the adhesive is applied onto the materialstrip by nozzle coating wherein the bead of adhesive applied onto thematerial strip has a thickness that is less than the thickness of thematerial strip.
 33. The method of claim 7 wherein the adhesive isapplied to the strip of material as the strip of material is appliedalong the interface.
 34. The method of claim 1 wherein the fabric panelshave a first color and the adhesive, when cured, has a color thatsubstantially matches the color of the fabric panels.
 35. An apparatusfor forming an adhesive seam comprising: a fabric feeder that draws atleast two pieces of fabric into abutted alignment as it moves the fabricthrough the apparatus; and an adhesive dispenser that applies adhesiveto the two pieces of fabric in the region of abutted alignment as theyare moved through the apparatus by the fabric feeder.
 36. The apparatusof claim 30 wherein the fabric feeder has a top portion and a bottomportion that together define a nip region into which the at least twopieces of fabric are drawn.
 37. The apparatus of claim 35 wherein thetop portion has a belt feeder and the bottom portion has a knurledroller.
 38. The apparatus of claim 35 wherein the top portion and thebottom portion are knurled rollers and wherein at least one of therollers is a driven roller.
 39. The apparatus of claim 38 wherein eachroller has a roller surface and the roller surface is selected from thegroups consisting of flat, concave and convex.
 40. The apparatus ofclaim 38 wherein both knurled rollers are driven.
 41. The apparatus ofclaim 35 wherein the adhesive dispenser is connected to an adhesivereservoir that stores adhesive in an inert atmosphere until dispensed.42. The apparatus of claim 35 wherein the adhesive dispenser has amaterial strip conveyor and an adhesive outlet and wherein the materialstrip conveyor is aligned with the adhesive outlet such that a firstmaterial strip is conveyed past the adhesive outlet along its length.43. The apparatus of claim 42 wherein the adhesive outlet is in fluidcommunication with an adhesive container.
 44. The apparatus of claim 43wherein the fabric feeder has at least one roller which is aligned withthe adhesive outlet, wherein the adhesive outlet is adapted to depositadhesive on the material strip as it is conveyed past the adhesiveoutlet.
 45. The apparatus of claim 43 wherein the adhesive containerfurther comprises a heater.
 46. The apparatus of claim 45 wherein theadhesive container further comprises an adhesive pump sized to pumpadhesive from the adhesive container through the adhesive dispenserorifice.
 47. The apparatus of claim 43 wherein the adhesive container isan air tight container.
 48. The apparatus of claim 42 wherein theadhesive outlet is a nozzle.
 49. The apparatus of claim 48 wherein thenozzle is selected from the group consisting of slot nozzle and spraynozzle.
 50. The apparatus of claim 42 wherein the material stripconveyer cooperates with the fabric feeder to feed the first materialstrip that is conveyed past the adhesive outlet into the fabric feeder.51. The apparatus of claim 42 wherein the fabric feeder is configured topress the first material strip into contact with the at least two piecesof fabric along the region of abutted alignment.
 52. The apparatus ofclaim 42 further comprising a second material strip conveyor.
 53. Theapparatus of claim 52 wherein the fabric feeder receives a secondmaterial strip from the second material strip conveyor and presses itinto contact with the at least two pieces of fabric along a secondregion of abutted alignment which is on a side of the at least twofabric panels opposite the first material strip.
 54. The apparatus ofclaim 51 wherein the material strip conveyor has a paper backingconveyor adapted to place a paper strip into contact with a face of thematerial strip along its length wherein the material strip is interposedbetween the orifice and the paper backing.
 55. The apparatus of claim 53wherein the material strip conveyor and the second material stripconveyor each have a paper backing conveyor adapted to place a paperstrip into contact with a face of the material strip along its lengthwherein the material strip is interposed between the orifice and thepaper backing.
 56. The apparatus of claim 54 wherein the fabric feederis adapted to receive the paper strip along with the material strip. 57.The apparatus of claim 55 wherein the fabric feeder is adapted toreceive the paper strip along with the material strip.
 58. The apparatusof claim 42 wherein the adhesive dispenser further comprises a rollercoater for transferring adhesive from the adhesive outlet to thematerial strip.
 59. The apparatus of claim 44 wherein the adhesivedispenser further comprises a slot nozzle for transferring adhesive fromthe adhesive dispenser to the material strip.
 60. The apparatus of claim58 further comprising a doctor blade positioned adjacent to the surfaceof the roller coater that dispenses adhesive onto the material strip.61. The apparatus of claim 42 further comprising a fluid outlet in thevicinity of the adhesive outlet.
 62. The apparatus of claim 35 furthercomprising a fabric feeding surface on which the fabric is placed as itis fed into the fabric feeder wherein the fabric feeding surface has asensor that detects the presence of fabric on the fabric feeder.
 63. Theapparatus of claim 62 wherein the detector is coupled with a switch thatcontrols at least one of the fabric feeder and the adhesive dispenser.64. The apparatus of claim 35 wherein the fabric feeder furthercomprises a guide for feeding the at least two pieces of fabric intoabutted alignment.
 65. The apparatus of claim 36 wherein the adhesivedispenser comprises a nozzle that has an outlet directed at the nipregion.
 66. The apparatus of claim 65 wherein the nozzle is selectedfrom the group consisting of a slot nozzle and a spray nozzle.
 67. Acuring holder for a fabric article having an adhesive seam duringadhesive cure comprising: a receiving surface with a contour thatsubstantially mimics the contour of at least a portion of the adhesiveseam of the fabric article.
 68. The curing holder of claim 67 whereinthe receiving surface is the exclusive supporting surface for the fabricarticle during cure.
 69. The curing holder of claim 67 wherein thecuring holder is a bra cup.
 70. The curing holder of claim 68 whereinthe receiving surface is configured to reduce the amount of mechanicalstress on the seam compared to a non-contoured supporting surface.